Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 18:51:57 EDT From: kc7gf@aol.com Subject: Beware RS Power Plugs I just spent the last hour trying to dig the yellow plastic tip of a Radio Shack 274-1532 power plug out of the DC connector of the my 817. When I tried to plug in my homebrew power cord this morning I could not get it to fit in far enough to provide external power to the radio. After a few minutes of hair pulling (and I can't afford much more of that) I realized the yellow plastic tip of the RS plug had broken off inside the socket and believe me it's a real B**** to get it out passed the ground connection. The inner contacts in the RS plug is so recessed that it barely makes contact in the first place. While it doesn't seem to give as positive a feel when plugged in, I have cut off the 1/8 inch yellow plastic end on all my RS power plugs so this doesn't happen again. It's also interesting to note that the back of the RS packaging suggests that this plug only be used for voltages between 3.16 and 6.3 vdc. Art - KC7GF ================================================================================== Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 02:10:28 -0000 From: "old_comedywriter" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs --- In FT817@y..., kc7gf@a... wrote: > ...the yellow > plastic tip of the RS plug had broken off inside the socket... I just tried to pull the yellow plastic off mine, and it will not move. Looks like mine has a "crimp" at the end of the ground, about 1/16" from the yellow. RS has been known to have many different parts manufacturers... > The inner contacts in the RS plug is so recessed that it barely makes contact in the first place. Just noticed that too...I'm slicing mine now. > It's also interesting to note that the back of the RS packaging suggests that this plug only be used for voltages between 3.16 and 6.3 vdc. Don't know why they said that...I've seen smaller plugs used by Motorola with 8.4 volts. I'd assume that current would be more of a limitation. Actual wording on this package was "This plug conforms to the EIAJ Class 2 plug size specifications. It is recommended for voltages between 3.16 and 6.3 VDC." ==================================================================================== Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 21:36:45 -0400 From: "Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD" Subject: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question I am converting all my stuff to the power poles. What do you all use for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? I would like to have the option of running rig and/or rig and amp from the same SLA battery which has little spade connectors. Are you simply putting 2 wires to one spade terminal, or somehow making up a terminal strip? I know there is the review of the fused connections in the latest QST and that is nice for in the shack (pretty expensive however!). Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD ________________________________________________________________________ Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 02:03:29 -0000 From: "wb6mlc" Subject: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question --- In hfpack@y..., "Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD" wrote: > I am converting all my stuff to the power poles. What do you all use > for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? Hi Rudy, I simply made a pigtail with the usual faston connectors, and put em on each battery I have . The pigtails are terminated into the powerpoles, and thats it. I follow the wiring standard that is based on many ARES groups in the West. You can find this listed at the Powerwerx website. If you look directly at your "power source" Powerpole, with the hood up and the tabs down, the red connector should be on the left ( the wire is on the opposite end). The cables that goes to my 817 and other accessories have their own powerpoles, and they are wired to mate with the "source" connectors on the battery pigtails. I also use a Y powerpole splitter! I hope that helps. A local group of hams (my Field day group) had a big discussion about this. Some are still not sure and insist on using molex and even banana plugs (ugh!!) 73,Ken WB6MLC ========================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:11:51 -0400 From: "Jeffrey Steinberg" Subject: RE: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question If you like to buy, go to www.qsradio.com He has a "powerpal" with SLA spade connectors. I have one and its very well made. I have no connection with this company other than having 3 orders with them. Jeffrey, K2MIT -----Original Message----- From: Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD [mailto:k8swd@arrl.net] Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 9:37 PM To: FT817@yahoogroups.com; hfpack@yahoogroups.com Subject: [HFpack] Anderson Pwr Pole connection question I am converting all my stuff to the power poles. What do you all use for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD ________________________________________________________________________ Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:23:07 -0400 From: doc Subject: Re: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question On Saturday 21 September 2002 22:03, wb6mlc wrote: > --- In hfpack@y..., "Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD" wrote: > > I am converting all my stuff to the power poles. What do you all use > > for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? Started the same project here today. Ran into the same challenge but remembered reading something somewhere about the need to reverse the colors ... got me past wondering if there were two styles of each color-coded connector! > I also use a Y powerpole splitter! > 73, Ken WB6MLC Planning to create three of those here. Any helpful hints about assembling them Ken? 73, doc kd4e ====================================================== Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 22:43:37 -0500 From: "Tim, N9PUZ" Subject: Re: [FT817] Anderson Pwr Pole connection question On Sat, 21 Sep 2002 21:36:45 -0400, Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD wrote: >I am converting all my stuff to the power poles.  What do you all >use for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? >I would like to have the option of running rig and/or rig and amp >from the same SLA battery which has little spade connectors.  Are >you simply putting 2 wires to one spade terminal, or somehow making >up a terminal strip?  I know there is the review of the fused >connections in the latest QST and that is nice for in the shack On the small SLA batteries with Faston (spade) type terminals I make a short cable that has two or three "taps" stubbed out to Powerpoles. I don't have a picture or one I can get to easily right now but I make each "tap" on the battery line sort of like you would attach coax cable to a pocket J-Pole made from 300 ohm twinlead. Once you've wrapped the wire on to the main line and soldered it you can fold it back on the line and cover with heatshrink. Note you'll have to fully seperate the positive and negative wires so you can heatshrink and solder but this little breakout cable normally only ends up 6 inches long or so. In general I never liked putting multiple wires into the small Faston type connectors. It just never seemed like it would be very sturdy. Tim, N9PUZ http://www.qsl.net/n9puz ================================================================ Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:47:57 -0000 From: "n1gnv" Subject: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question Rudy: You can make "Y" adapters (2 into 1) with the Powerpoles using #16 wire -- in fact, you can make "Zs" (3 in parallel), "Ws" (4 in parallel), etc. At some point it gets much easier to use a panel like the RIGRunner, though. Plus you have built in fusing, voltage warning, etc. It's also difficult, at best, to get more than one #14 or bigger wire into a Powerpole. Similarly, you can make one cable with connectors for both the radio and tuner or other low-current accessory into one Powerpole. I'd recommend a separate cable for the amp. Check out http://www.qsradio.com/PowerPals.htm for some ideas on different adapter cables. 73, John Bee N1GNV Quicksilver Radio Products www.qsradio.com > I am converting all my stuff to the power poles. What do you all use for making up a pigtale from your battery to other accessories? I would like to have the option of running rig and/or rig and amp from the same SLA battery which has little spade connectors. Are you simply putting 2 wires to one spade terminal, or somehow making up a terminal strip? I know there is the review of the fused connections in the latest QST and that is nice for in the shack (pretty expensive however!). ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 15:33:37 -0000 From: "n1gnv" Subject: Re: FT-817 power jack gave out.... Chris: The quick 'n' dirty solution is to pigtail your cable to the ground screw for the -DC connection. I'd recommend using a small clamp on the cable, attached to the ground screw, to keep the cable from further stressing the connector. You'll likely need a longer screw -- the thread is 3mm -- and about 8mm long should do it. I include the clamp and screw with the PowerPals for the 817. If you can't find one locally, let me know and I'll put a clamp and screw in the mail. Do you know for sure that the connector is bad? After seeing some posts here, I checked mine and thought it was. Fortunately I remembered the protection diode in the external power circuit before I did surgery :-) 73, John Bee N1GNV Quicksilver Radio Products www.qsradio.com --- In FT817@y..., "chris_nichols_98" wrote: > Has anyone figured out how to fix this problem? I can still operate the > radio while connected to the ground screw, but my connectors path to > ground in the radio is busted. _______________________________________________________________________ Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:15:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Bil Paul Subject: Re: FT-817 power jack gave out.... Chris -- You're not the first to have problems with 817 power jack failure. To make a more permanent connector I removed the old jack box and installed a latching (if that's the best term?) BNC connector. But it's never easy working with surface mount connections. Part of the problem with my original 817 power jack was that it wasn't securely soldered to the circuit board. With the BNC connector there's a very secure connection. -- Bil KD6JUI --- chris_nichols_98 wrote: > Has anyone figured out how to fix this problem? I > can still operate > the radio while connected to the ground screw, but > my connectors path > to ground in the radio is busted. Is there a way to > fix this with > out the need for a microscope and the hands of a > surgeon? The power > cable is fine I checked before anyone asks.... > Thanks, Chris N K5PSK ====================================================================== Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 12:37:51 -0000 From: "cat100bob" Subject: Re: FT-817 power jack gave out.... --- In FT817@y..., "chris_nichols_98" wrote: > Is there a way to fix this with > out the need for a microscope and the hands of a surgeon? The power > cable is fine I checked before anyone asks.... > > Thanks, Chris N K5PSK Chris, This subject has come up on the HFPack Group list also. It appears that there are two causes of power socket failure: a burnt trace (which appears to be fixable by bridging the gap on the PC board), and failed solder connections between the power socket and the PC board. Below please find my comments that I posted to the HF Pack list: The burnt traces are an indication that something in the radio may have drawn a lot of current momentarily. Could be a design flaw (trace too small for the amount of current it is carrying), or possibly an intermittant short. I suspect a design flaw. It appears that with some 817's, there may also be a failure of the solder connection between the power plug and the PC board. This happened to my FT-100 speaker socket, and it was not an easy fix. This would have been an expensive fix if I was forced to send it back to the factory for repair. However, I was lucky to be able to, using a very small tip soldering iron, flow some solder down the speaker socket pins and into the tiny PC board hole and onto the PC board lands on the underside of the board, completing the circuit again. I have been using an external speaker in my P/U truck for over two years, and the constant vibration of the speaker plug eventually caused the separation between the speaker socket pins and the PC board. If you are using a larger gauge power cord than that supplied by Yaesu, you might want to re-think your choice of power cord wire. Strain and vibration from the stiffer larger gauge wire could eventually cause the connection between the power socket and the PC board to fail. This might explain why Yaesu supplies such a small gauge power cord. Their designers might have been aware of the potential for power connector/PC board failure. I use about eight inches of a lighter gauge wire (similar to that supplied by Yaesu). It is within these eight inches of wire that I have placed my in-line fuse and snap-on ferrite choke. I then use polarized Anderson connectors to adapt to a larger gauge wire for the remainder of the trip to my power supplies. The voltage drop in the eight inches of small gauge wire will be insignificant. Bob WA6UFQ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:32:20 -0400 From: "K7SZ" Subject: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question From: "John Kalotai" > I'm using the RIGrunner 4005 from West Mountain in my Mountain Ops > backpack to distribute power to my radio from two 2.6 aHr batteries. > Yeah its a little pricey (49.95 US). John & Gang: I only recently gotten on board with this Anderson Powerpole thing. I have to admit that this is the first sensible system I have seen to manage DC power. I still have my MFJ 1116 & 1118 DC power distribution panels, but they are going to be replaced with the excellent RIGrunner 4008s from West Mountain Radio. The MFJ panels are "OK" but they aren't as handy as the RIGrunners nor are they as flexible. A 4005 RIGrunner is going in each vehicle to manage DC power while mobile. Sure, the RIGrunners are a little pricey, but they certainly offer a lot of flexibility, have over/under voltage indicators, and, to me, cosmetically look a lot nicer than the Powerpoles. With the upswing in mobile/portable operation currently underway in Ham Radio, converting now to RIGrunners and Anderson connectors makes a lot of sense. For those of us in the emergency/disaster comms business, interoperability is essential. Anderson connectors seem to be "the" thing to use, even though the ARRL still advocates the MOLEX connectors sold at R-S. (Although, in talking with the Emergency Comms folks at the League, they say that their Emergency Communications Courses advocate the use of the Anderson connectors. I guess the printer word will take some time to catch up with the Internet and the tele-courses.) In talking with the West Mountain Radio folks, they say the easiest way to make things work when converting over, is to make a batch of "tweenies" (you know, those little adaptors that go "between things" using the Anderson connectors on one end and what ever mates up with your current system on the other end...being careful to observe polarity, of course). Over time, and as money allows, it will be relatively easy to completely convert over to the Anderson system and eventually totally replace all the MOLEX and odd-ball DC power connectors. 73 Rich K7SZ Editor: "QRP Power" (QST) Editor: "Homeland Security" (PopComm) ============================================================================== Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 14:57:46 -0400 From: "John O. Newell" Subject: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question > I only recently gotten on board with this Anderson Powerpole thing Ditto here, bought one of the 12-position units from West Mountain at the Boxboro event and have been wondering why it took so long to see the light. I am converting everything in the shack and when I'm through, the mobils will go the same way. I will second all the favorable comments in favor of the WMR RigRunners (and will probably get one of the five position units for the Cherokee), but even if you don't buy one of the RigRunners, there's a lot to be said for the APP connectors. It is probably worth making up adapters so you can stay interoperable with other connectors, though! 73 John Newell KB1FPM ________________________________________________________________________ Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 15:14:42 -0400 From: "Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD" Subject: Re: Anderson Pwr Pole connection question OK--I just finished putting 2 spade lugs--or whatever you call those things that fit on an SLA battery--onto a short piece (½") of solid copper house wire. I put the tab of the Powerpole onto the other end of the wire and slipped on the plastic. I put a piece of a heat shrink (but did not shrink it) onto the power cable and separate the Power pole connector, slide the "straw" back up the cable to allow the wires to separate. Slide back down and connect the connectors to keep it together. When I get the Y made up, I can shrink the tube if I desire. I took another piece of the solid house wire about an inch long and soldered it to another set of Powerpoles. This will provide a solid point to solder and/or crimp my "Y" or "tri" wires too. Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD ============================================================================ I too have converted all my 12v equipment (including amateur radio equipment) to the Anderson PowerPoles. For the last 25 years in Amateur Radio I had been using 2-pin molex connectors from RS - then our local RS distributor switched to another format for 2 pin Molex connectors. Anyways, I got very tired switching my diminishing supply of molex connectors among my expanding ham radio equipment, so two weeks ago I converted EVERYTHING to 30 amp APPs. With a 12 position RigRunner in the shack, an 8 position in the trailer, and a 5 position in the van, I have great ability to move what ever equipment I like to any location. Just one caution though - the asxeual nature of these connectors is a great convenience, but you have to be a litle bit more careful! For example, if you put a power pole connector on the end of a male plug for an auto accessory ('cigarette lighter'), so as to power your mobile equipment of another vehicle, be careful not to plug the APP end into a another 'live' APP connector. If you do, you will have an exposed 'positive' accessory plug, which will search out, and find, a grounding place, somewhere - guaranteed! Ditto for those "alligator" clips which you fit over battery terminals. Don't power up the wrong end, or sparks will fly. Important to FUSE as many circuiots as possible if not using the "RigRunners" which have built-in fusing. Also, if operating in the dark etc., it is possible to connect the black powerpole from one plug to the red powerpole of another. Could cause a problem if both are connected to the same circuit. RED ====== BLACK======'!!z-z-z-z-z!!'======= RED ======= BLACK Gordon VE3JSJ ============================================================================== Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 22:15:00 EDT From: kc7gf@aol.com Subject: Re: Trailer Connectors Bonnie, Recently I have been using the Motorola plugs that come with their two way radios. They look exactly like the trailer plugs you have on your web site but may be a little differently spaced. I worked for a company that used the radios but not the plugs so I wound up with dozens of extra power cords. I like the fact that that they are "polarized" with the one connector being covered by rubber. Unfortunately I wanted something to handle heavier current so I am leaning toward the Powerpoles which can also be "polarized". By the way, heard you and Rudy trying to make a go of it at your lunch time but was hanging on the wall at the end of a paint brush or I would have tried to relay for you. Could hear you both quite well. Heard you and I think K5OOR as you were getting off work later. To the persons who got excited over The Powerpole Conspiracy Theory. It was a joke, OK? (take a pill) I like the powerpoles because they are designed to wipe the contacts each time you put them together. They have broad flat contact areas and the spring of the contacts also act to hold the mating connectors together. That and the fact that part of the line comes in different amperage ratings but are still the same physical size makes them desirable for different power rigs. A thirty amp connector on the 30 amp power supply can be attached to the 30 amp connector on the FT100 or 15 amp connector on the two meter rig. Some people can screw anything up. Art - KC7GF Golden, CO. ======================================================================== Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:09:46 -0500 From: "David Schornak" Subject: power plug I know that the power plug has been discussed about it coming loose and loosing connection however mine did something have not read about on here and thought you folks would like to know about it. I measured the resistance between my power cord and the ground of the radio it was wide open when in side the radio the cord was making connection in the plug the plug was not loose and not open solder joints however on the side of the power plug closest to the pcb mounting screw there where two solder blobs with a surface mount component between them the ground was making it to that component but now further. I looked and could not make out what this component was but what I found was if I shorted across it everything would work alright. so I am wondering if this was yeasu trying to put a fuse in the rig but then why on the negative side? it did look like an after thought and it was not flat on the pcb it was in those solder blobs and if you looked at it with just glance you would have missed it but that component is the problem with my rig and I not sure what to put back in its place? see ya 73's KG4LSK David Schornak ============================================================================= Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:29:45 -0800 From: Elliott Lawrence Subject: External Power Connector Looks like their is a problem at the 13.8v external connector. The 817 doesn't recognize that power is applied at that point. I know the connector is fragile but I have been careful and mechanically it appears to be okay. Need to open the cover and see if their is a bad solder connection or other obvious fault. Anything else that I should look for when the lid is off? Thanks, Elliott WA6TLA _______________________________________________________________________ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:38:57 -0800 From: Elliott Lawrence Subject: Re: External Power Connector Well the radio is fine. Turns out that the power plug for some reason doesn't seat correctly. I have several connectors made up with the Radio Shack plug and they ALL don't work. They did before! The Radio Shack connector has an external yellow plastic tip showing and seems to fit very loosely. I had another connector without the yellow plastic that gives a slight snap when inserted. That connector works just fine! Don't remember where I bought this one particular connector. Other than RS are their any other sources of "good" connectors? 72 Elliott WA6TLA Elliott Lawrence wrote: > Looks like their is a problem at the 13.8v external connector. The 817 > doesn't recognize that power is applied at that point. I know the > connector is fragile but I have been careful and mechanically it appears > to be okay. Need to open the cover and see if their is a bad solder > connection or other obvious fault. Anything else that I should look for > when the lid is off? > > Thanks, Elliott WA6TLA ========================================================================= From: "G8IFF/KC8NHF Nigel A. Gunn" Date: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:58 am Subject: Re: [FT817] FT817 Power Plug ADVERTISEMENT It's a standard plug available from Maplin, but if it's not working, it's probably the socket you need to change. Safer to get one from Yaesu. Peter Fuchs wrote: >I have realized, that the power plug at my FT817 is >damaged. In fact it makes no contact anymore. >Has somebody already replaced that part? >Is it advisable to replace the on my own? >Is it a standart plug or is a Yeasu special? =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 08:05:28 +0100 From: John Stratfull Subject: Re: Finals "fix" Heads up problem John WA6VML Are sure it is your power jack at fault? I too have no continuity between the jack negative contact and ground. A visual check has revealed an smd (testing open circuit) alongside the power jack, tacked between the -ve input jack pad and the perimeter ground plane. It seemed reasonable to assume that this was an undocumented fuse. This is not shown in the schematic or layout diagrams. On further checking, it was found that the -ve track between T1035 and the input jack had been cut just past C1452, so disconnecting the EMI components and ground from the jack. Additional support for assuming the smd is a fuse! Another modification has been found, which is included at the end of the parts list, a fuse unit attached to the top of the input jack. This consists of a diode D9001 and a 3.15A fuse F9001 in series, and is connected to the cathodes of D1093 and D1085, presumably in place of D1084 on the underside on the main board. It is to be assumed that the two fuses are to provide protection against an internal malfunction which might cause a heavy discharge current from either an external or internal rechargeable battery. I'm too long in the tooth to be soldering smd's and have made up a short power lead, fitted with an inline fuse and connected to the positive pin of a power plug and the ground screw under the jack. 73 John G3IJS =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 00:19:36 -0700 From: "JDAM" Subject: Re: Finals "fix" Heads up problem Great info John....I think I damaged the plug by catching the wire with my hand and jerking it the other day. It looks like its recessed too far to contact the neg. part of the plug (used a spark plug inspection magnifier to see in there) If the replacement jack looks identical I will do what you have done or solder a pico fuse across the defective SMD fuse(s) John WA6VML > undocumented fuse. This is not shown in the schematic or layout > diagrams. =========================================================================== Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 21:10:57 +0100 From: John Stratfull Subject: Re: Power connector Power Tip Connector AR22Y type I 4x1.7mm =========================================================================== Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 03:48:49 -0000 From: "wa3jpg" Subject: Re: Blown Finals There is a 3 amp surface mount fuse in line with the negative trace from the battery, quite close to the board connector for the battery (on the other side of the board.) It is clearly marked with a "3" on my board. If your rig is "dead" with the external power connected, it sounds like some other problem. It may not be dead finals at all, if the whole rig is dead, I consider that a "good" sign, there is probably a broken trace or simple bad connection from the power source. Does the rig light up at all? Anything on the display? Any relays click when you turn it on? Is it different with battery and with external power? Let us know, we can probably help out. Clark WA3JPG --- In FT817@yahoogroups.com, "Roy Hartley (East lancs)" r.hartley@n... wrote: The question is where are all these fuzes that are supposed to be on the set? I don't recognise anything as a fuse. =========================================================================== Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 12:45:09 -0000 From: "phil_ad5x" Subject: Re: Ft 817 Power Plug Revisited --- In FT817@yahoogroups.com, "ka3ful" wrote: > > There has been postings on Ebay regarding the > > "FT 817 power plug" > > 1 @$6.00 or 2 @ $9.95 shipping included > > Looks like a good deal for the exact plug. > But the 4x1.7mm DC plug from Mouser Electronics (Mouser 171-3219) is only $1.09. www.mouserelectronics.com. And as I recall, the Radio Shack plug is less expensive than this eBay plug. Phil - AD5X =========================================================================== --- In FT817@yahoogroups.com, Doug Forman wrote: I bought a couple of these 274-1532 4.0 x 1.7mm plugs tonight, and they don't seem to push in far enough... fall right out too easily. Does this make sense, or am I missing something? Doug N7BNT Lonnie Whelan wrote: You can buy the solder-on plug from Radio Shack - you don't have to use an adapta-plug. It is Cat. no 274-1532 DC Power Plug 4.0 x 1.7mm. ========================================================================== Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:00:20 -0000 From: "Lonnie Whelan" Subject: Re: FT-817 DC Plug Dimensions Well Doug, after I read your post I dug my as yet un-opened package of Radio Crap connectors out of the parts drawer, opened it, and tried one on my FT-817. You're right, it didn't feel right. Then I noticed that the yellow plastic tip had come off the connector and was firmly lodged in the power jack on my radio! I'd heard of this happening before but I had lucked out UNTIL NOW. I have two or three of these connectors in use and they've always worked fine. Now I gotta figure out how to remove the blighter. It looks to be caught behind the ground connection so I guess I'll have to break it up and take it out in pieces. You can be sure I'll never recommend them to anyone else! 73. Lonnie, N9IUI =========================================================================== Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 17:29:39 -0000 From: "k8drn2001" Subject: Re: FT-817 DC Plug Dimensions Lonnie, Try using a very sharp probe like a dental pick and make a sharp but small bend at the end. Then try to grab the plastic piece on the inside and pull straight out. I've had good results on two occasions getting them out this way... Good luck. Jim K8DRN ========================================================================== Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 01:48:39 -0000 From: "sjs50613" Subject: Re: FT-817 DC Plug Dimensions I ran into a similar problem with the RS plug some months ago; in my case, I had intermittent connection problems, and the plug just didn't feel like it was seating right. I determined that the sleeve contact was not making good connection due to the slightly extended plastic tip; I don't think the original Yaesu plug is like this. I fixed the RS plugs by filing down the plastic at the tip of the power plug until the sleeve material was just the end of the plug. Possibly that will help with the problem of the plastic tip coming off? See message 36873 and related messages. Steve AK0M ========================================================================== Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 15:12:33 -0000 From: "Grover Cleveland" Subject: Re: Ft 817 Power Plug Revisited Why not go this route, also from Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/0417151.pdf It's the right-angle version. I prefer this to those that stick straight out of the back. Grover K7TP =========================================================================== The quality of the Radio Shack connectors has gone down greatly. The first bunch I bought when I first got my 817 worked great, no problem at all. Now, they're poop. They must be using a different source for their parts. You might be able to put a hook on a pin and snag it with that. (I was worried that the "breaking up" part was about the socket ;->) I also sound that the "adapt-a-plug" connectors were better, but not as good as their originals. Bob WA2EGP =========================================================================== Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 18:23:39 +0200 From: Ron Gang Subject: Eureka ... a power plug probably for free If I'm telling you something you already know, or has already been on this reflector, my profound apologies.... For what it's worth, I just discovered that the plugs on the 4.5 volt wall-wart supplies that come with portable CD players are the same size as that for the FT-817 external power socket. So, you might have a spare plug on a cord in your junk pile! Happy hamming, 73 de Ron 4X1MK =========================================================================== Power plug again Posted by: "Bruce Bonham" kb0pgo@yahoo.com kb0pgo Date: Wed Nov 8, 2006 10:29 am ((PST)) The part you are looking for os a B type plug and the stock nunber is 273-1705. I happen to be working at a RS store today and have my 817 with me... Bruce... kb0pgo N0UTJ wrote: I've tried searching the more recent messges but can't find the answere. WHat size or Radio Shack part nuber is the power plug for the FT-817 ? Thanks Randall =========================================================================== Power plug again Posted by: "N0UTJ" N0UTJ@cox.net rkkennard Date: Wed Nov 8, 2006 12:48 pm ((PST)) Thanks for the replies. I did find out that it is a 4x1.7mm. And the "B" Radio Shack plug would do. Thanks Randall =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:32:26 -0000 From: "w4cng" Subject: Re: External Power Connector I already added a second power connector to the rear panel as the design of the existing one is fragile at best. There is a spot on the rear panel where you can add a second coaxial power connector. It is just to the right and slightly up from the existing connector. I used a 5.5MM with 2.2MM center pin chassis mount connector from RS. It will take VERY careful drilling and counter sinking (read that 30 minutes) of the hole to get the connector to fit. It can be done and I have had no further problems with External power on my 817. Good Luck Steve W4CNG --- In FT817@y..., Elliott Lawrence wrote: > Well the radio is fine. Turns out that the power plug for some reason doesn't seat correctly. I have several connectors made up with the Radio Shack plug and they ALL don't work. They did before! The Radio Shack connector has an external yellow plastic tip showing and seems to fit very loosely. I had another connector without the yellow plastic that gives a slight snap when inserted. That connector works just fine! Don't remember where I bought this one particular connector. Other than RS are their any other sources of "good" connectors? > > 72 > Elliott WA6TLA Elliott Lawrence wrote: > > > Looks like their is a problem at the 13.8v external connector. The 817 doesn't recognize that power is applied at that point. I know the > > connector is fragile but I have been careful and mechanically it appears to be okay. Need to open the cover and see if their is a bad solder > > connection or other obvious fault. Anything else that I should look for when the lid is off? > > > > Thanks, > > Elliott WA6TLA =========================================================================== Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 08:18:37 -0800 From: Elliott Lawrence Subject: Re: fault power jack I have concluded that the power connector on my 817 has a problem. All of the cables that worked before do not function now! However, I have one new plug that works just fine so I don't have to immediately replace it. Don't anyone have any experience removing the old connector from the board? Is it just a matter of solder wicking the connections from the top or does the board need to be removed to get at the backside? Obviously the less heat used the better. Thanks for any response. Elliott WA6TLA David Schornak wrote: > okay the power connector on the back of my 817 has lost its ground so instead of replacing it I am going to remove it and add a pig tail with powerpole connector on the end and an inline fuse also am thinking about a diode but as the power poles are keyed maybe not anyone else tried this to repair the jack or has everyone just replaced the jack > 73's KG4LSK David Schornak ===================================================================== Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:18:03 -0000 From: "ka5s" Subject: Re: fault power jack The FT-817's power is not grounded until it has passed through a bifilar wound inductor. If you find the radio must be grounded to receive power, this may be open, or the power board may have an open trace. Do check these as you add your pigtail. Some early 817's were reported to have failed with insulation melting in the toroid, shorting positive and negative leads together - which I think you want NOT to happen! Cortland --- In FT817@y..., "David Schornak" wrote: so instead of replacing it I am going to remove it and add a pig tail with powerpole connector on the end and an inline fuse also am =========================================================================== Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:16:33 -0000 From: "k8crm2" Subject: Re: Fault Power Jack Shortly after I bought my 817 I started building extra power input cables. I started out with Radio Shack connectors. The first one I plugged in seemed OK. When I went to plug in the Yaesu cable, I noticed that it would not go in all the way. It had to be held in place. After some study of the connector on the radio I discovered that the plastic tip on the RS connector had broken off and stayed inside the connector on the radio. It took about an hour to get the plastic ring out. That was by breaking it into pieces and digging out the pieces. I pressed sideways on the remaining RS connector tip with my finger and it snaped right off. I switched over to "Philmore" connectors with no problems. When I buy new connectors now I always check to see if the plastic tips are weak and prone to breaking off. At least that is what happened to me. So, look through your connectors and see if any have their plastic tip broken off, if you're having trouble getting the power plug to insert all the way. 73 Chris K8CRM =========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:34:09 -0000 From: "n1gnv" Subject: Re: fault power jack To prevent wear and tear on the jack, you want to put some sort of strain relief on the power cable. I provide a clamp and replacement (longer) ground screw with each PowerPal cable for the FT-817. The clamp keeps the cable in place and takes the stress. If anyone is interested in just the clamp and screw, I'll be happy to mail you one for $2.00. See my Web Site -- www.qsradio.com -- for more info and mailing address. Thanks and 72, John Bee, N1GNV Quicksilver Radio Products www.qsradio.com --- In FT817@y..., "David Schornak" wrote: > > okay the power connector on the back of my 817 has lost its ground so =========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:14:38 -0000 From: "KR8L/9" Subject: Re: fault power jack Here is one easy way to do it: (NOTE Jim: Good info at URL below) http://www.srv.net/~kr8l/ Follow Link #6 73 de Bill, KR8L/9 --- In FT817@y..., "n1gnv" wrote: > To prevent wear and tear on the jack, you want to put some sort of > strain relief on the power cable. ... ========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:03:33 -0000 From: "davidgeorgerichards" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs --- In FT817@y..., kc7gf@a... wrote: That is what I'm trying to do right now! How did you do it? I will NEVER use another of those RS power connectors to power the FT-817. So how did you get it out? Dave. AA7EE, Hollywood, California. =========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:25:49 -0000 From: "n3eg7" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs > That is what I'm trying to do right now! How did you do it? \ I use a small component lead or strand from a large copper power cable with a small "hook" bent on the end. Remove the batteries first, and then hook the plastic piece from the inside next to the center pin through one of the two slots. It may take several tries, but I've done it twice without too much hassle. First time it took 15 minutes, second time about 3 minutes. =========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:28:52 -0000 From: "n3eg7" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs: clarification I meant from the inside of the connector (looking into the connector), not the inside of the radio. =========================================================================== Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:35:28 -0000 From: "davidgeorgerichards" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs --- In FT817@y..., "n3eg7" wrote: Thank you for the tip. Sadly, it doesn't seem to be working for me. I think I'm going to have to resort to using a small hobbyist type drill to break it up into pieces so I can remove it. Dave. AA7EE, Hollywood, California (now paying the price for ignoring the warnings about the RS power connectors) =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:32:26 -0000 From: "w4cng" Subject: Re: External Power Connector I already added a second power connector to the rear panel as the design of the existing one is fragile at best. There is a spot on the rear panel where you can add a second coaxial power connector. It is just to the right and slightly up from the existing connector. I used a 5.5MM with 2.2MM center pin chassis mount connector from RS. It will take VERY careful drilling and counter sinking (read that 30 minutes) of the hole to get the connector to fit. It can be done and I have had no further problems with External power on my 817. Good Luck Steve W4CNG --- In FT817@y..., Elliott Lawrence wrote: > Well the radio is fine. Turns out that the power plug for some reason doesn't seat correctly. I have several connectors made up with the Radio Shack plug and they ALL don't work. They did before! The Radio Shack connector has an external yellow plastic tip showing and seems to fit very loosely. I had another connector without the yellow plastic that gives a slight snap when inserted. That connector works just fine! Don't remember where I bought this one particular connector. Other than RS are their any other sources of "good" connectors? > > 72 > Elliott WA6TLA > Elliott Lawrence wrote: Looks like their is a problem at the 13.8v external connector. The 817 doesn't recognize that power is applied at that point. I know the connector is fragile but I have been careful and mechanically it appears to be okay. Need to open the cover and see if their is a bad solder connection or other obvious fault. Anything else that I should look for when the lid is off? > > > > Thanks, > > Elliott WA6TLA =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:32:26 -0000 From: "w4cng" Subject: Re: External Power Connector I already added a second power connector to the rear panel as the design of the existing one is fragile at best. There is a spot on the rear panel where you can add a second coaxial power connector. It is just to the right and slightly up from the existing connector. I used a 5.5MM with 2.2MM center pin chassis mount connector from RS. It will take VERY careful drilling and counter sinking (read that 30 minutes) of the hole to get the connector to fit. It can be done and I have had no further problems with External power on my 817. Good Luck Steve W4CNG =========================================================================== Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 12:45:09 -0400 From: "ROBERT EVANS" Subject: Re: DC connector for FT817 Where can you get a DC power jack for the FT-817? It is a coax-style jack having dimensions of 4.0 x 1.7 mm. One source is Radio Shack and the part number is 274-1532. WARNING: The power plug is not the most durable plug seen, so be careful not to try to force the wrong size jack onto the plug. An "exact" replacement for the Yaesu supplied jack is Philmore No. TC240 (6 Ft. DC Power Cord). ================================================================== Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 08:22:39 -0700 From: "Jess Gypin" Subject: RE: Re: Help in repairing my FT-817 The connector releases vertically in the plane of the cable. Just try to gently pull up/out on the connector in the same plane that the cable plugs into the socket. It does not release to the side or at 90 degrees, it releases inline with the cable. If the cable were plugged in straight up and down or vertical, then you would release the cable by gently prying up, or vertical away from the plane of the pc board at 90 degrees to the board. If the cable is horizontal to the board, then just try to release the connector in the same direction that you would pull out the cable from the socket if it were released. Jess -----Original Message----- From: Bruno Rodeghiero [mailto:rod@freemail.it] Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 7:58 AM To: FT817@yahoogroups.com Subject: [FT817] Re: Help in repairing my FT-817 --- In FT817@yahoogroups.com, "Jess Gypin" wrote: > The flat cables are held in by the connector. There is an outer "sleeve" > that needs to be released. Just gently use something with a sharp edge like > a small jewlers screrw driver and gently lift the coonector outer sleeve at > the edges of the cable. The outer sleeve will pull up about 1/8th of an > inch, releasing the cable from the connector. > I thought it was so. I have a jewler screwdriver ready.. The body of the connector is white (fixed on the PC) and the "sleeve" is brown. I understand it must slip parallel to the pc board towards the front panel, isn't it? Thanks a lot. Bruno i3RGH =========================================================================== Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 09:48:42 -0800 From: Elliott Lawrence Subject: Re: DC failure on FT-817 Yes Orla I have had a similar problem with my 817. The ground connection in the power connector on my 817 went bad. THis can be verified by measuring a lack of continuity from power plug ground to 817 chassis. Fortunately I had a plug that managed to work so I made up an adaptor. However, the real fix is to replace the power connector. It is a surface mount part that is available from Yaesu. Many others have had similar problems. GL es 72 Elliott WA6TLA "orla_saabye " wrote: > I hope some of you out there are able to help with this, my FT-817 > have stop using DC from external source, but not from the battery, > are there any having the same fault ?, and more important have some one > a solution on this ?. > > VY 73 De Orla Saabye > OZ1KRI ============================================================ Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:54:51 -0500 From: "David Schornak" Subject: Re: DC failure on FT-817 yes I had the same problem here is what I did to find out what was wrong first take a volt ohm meter and verify that the ground wire is connected to the heat sink if not then open the rig and verify that the ground side of the connector is still connected to the pcb if so then make sure that the grounds on the pcb are connected to ground. the other thing I did was hooked my 817 to a 12 volt source than connected the ground lug on the 817 to the negative on the power supply my 817 at this point worked fine so I went inside and found that the ground on the connector was still firmly connected to the pcb however there was a little component of some kind that was on the side of the connector between the ground and the ground strap that keeps the power connector anchored to the pcb and by shorting that component out everything worked so that is what I did and everything in my 817 works fine now. 73's KG4LSK David ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 12:12 PM Subject: [FT817] DC failure on FT-817 > I hope some of you out there are able to help with this, my FT-817 > have stop using DC from external source, but not from the battery, > are there any having the same fault ?, and more important have some one > a solution on this ?. > > VY 73 De Orla Saabye > OZ1KRI =========================================================================== Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 07:09:44 -0000 From: "ki6lo" Subject: Re: Beware RS Power Plugs I haven't had the tip break off but I have found that the power connector on the FT817 isn't that sturdy and that I had to cut off the exposed yellow tip portion of the 4.0mm x 1.7mm RS coaxial plugs (same size as their "B" adaptable plug-in tip) in order to keep the DC power plug from falling out with the very slightest movement of the DC power cable. I run my FT817 mobile and have found the only plugs that will stay in my rig while in motion (vibration, bumps, etc.) is the RS plug (ones with tiny indent right at end of the shield/ground) with the yellow tip trimmed away. These stay in ok and don't fall out. I had considered replacing the coaxial power socket in my FT817 but once I was into the job I soon realized it wasn't going to be a trival task. The DC power connection is mounted on the main circuit board and has 3 shield attachment points to remove along with the positive point and the passthru connection to the internal battery. I looked at it for quite a while and finally conceeded that it was something that could wait until I had to do it. If someone has done this sort of fix, I would like to hear about it. 73s Gene KI6LO =============================================================== Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 08:50:12 -0000 From: "ki6lo" Subject: Re: fault power jack --- In FT817@y..., "David Schornak" wrote: exactly but one question that I have will the diode pose a problem for the radio to charge the internal battery pack since there will be a voltage drop across the diode? diode will go inside the rig fuse in a holder on the outside of the rig power pole at the end 6" pig tail. Since the diode should be installed across the external power input with the cathode (-) to positive side of power, the diode will be reversed biased on a normal power hookup and there will not be any voltage drop (unless of course you hook up the power backwards then it will forward bias and blow the fuse). Be sure and use something like a 1N4001 or larger not a signal diode (something similar to 1N914 or such). The best bet is to use the diode and a polarized connection. Double insurance. Gene KI6LO =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== =========================================================================== ===========================================================================